From the moment you exit the elevator onto the lower-ground floor setting, you’re smacked with a real sense of anticipation. The dining room is old-school elegance –white tablecloths, bright artwork, blue leather, cowed lighting – married with a sense of slightly jumbled cosiness.

As you’d expect, all the traditional Italian favourites make up the menu. It’s humble, lovingly prepared food. The portions are generous and the quality of the ingredients is evident.

Burrata and beef carpaccio are the stars of the starters. Both simply presented and delicious. Moving to carbs, the pastas are perfectly silky and the gorgonzola tortellini is magnificently rich, and feels like the culinary equivalent of being wrapped in a warm embrace. Another fabulous pick is the hubcap-proportioned veal Milanese – dynamite with a hefty squeeze of lemon.

The Mayfair edition of this restaurant is famous for its seafood, and the Dubai incarnation is no different – ideal if you’re looking for lighter picks. The branzino and gamberoni alla Mediterranean will have even the most discerning of seafood aficionados purring with praise.

Note, sides are a must, all main dishes come naked. The zucchini fritte a highlight from a modest side dish menu.

White tablecloths at the ready, this Italian fine-dining stalwart delivers a sophisticated dining experience where the ingredients do the talking.Licensed. Restaurant Village, Four Seasons Dubai at Jumeira Beach, Jumeirah Beach Road (04 349 0068)

By Time Out Editors | 07 Apr 2021Time Out reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.